Mauna Kea

Climbing Mauna Kea is a bit more complicated than you would think. First off, you have to take the Saddle Road, which weaves through the lowlands between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, and which is forbidden by rental car companies (unless you rent the premium SUVs which come in around $150 per day). So once you've decided to break that kapu (the Hawaiian term for 'action punishable by death'), you find the small turnoff that leads up the mountain to about 9,000 feet above sea level, where the Visitor Center sits. The view is spectacular! You're above the first level of clouds and, where the sky is clear, you can see for miles.

They suggest you stick around that elevation for about an hour to acclimate to the decreased oxygen levels, not to mention the drop in temperature. It was in the 80s when we set out from Waimea on the Saddle Road, and at the Visitor Center our car's thermostat read in the 50s. Of course, the Visitor Center sells all sorts of appropriate items, like fancy hoodies or $1.00 hot chocolate sachets. Brilliant.

The hike begins just a short distance up the road from the Visitor Center. It starts out as part of a dirt road and then veers away and uphill. The rest of the trail is a narrow pathway of scree that heads straight uphill at a 45 degree angle.

Evidently Hawaiians don't believe in switch backs, so the 6 mile trail up the mountain is straight up. It doesn't take long before you ascend into the next layer of clouds...though it feels like an eternity of cheek-clenching uphill hiking. At some points, it became difficult to see very far ahead of you.

After about five hours of hiking, we finally made it to the lake - Lake Waiau. This was probably the coldest part of the hike because it was situated in a spot open to the strong winds that frequently buffet the top.

Ancient Hawaiians believed that the lake was the navel of the world, and it still holds a great amount of significance. Even now, some Hawaiians trek up the mountain to bury their children's umbilical cords or deceased family members because of the extreme spiritual power of the water.

Finally, after 6 grueling hours, we reached the end of the trail which comes out onto the road that leads to 14 observatories spread around the peak. Mauna Kea is considered the best place in the world for astronomical research because of the remoteness of the islands and the minimal light pollution (cities on the island either have downward-facing street lights or a noticeable absence of them). So, this is where the top astronomers do all their work.

BUT, because of the sacredness of the mountain to the Hawaiians, the summit bears only a small altar made from lava rocks and sticks. And to get there, you have to hike one more mile uphill from where the trail ends.

Our efforts were certainly rewarded at the top. Though there were a lot of clouds, it was a stunning view from 13,800 feet. Plus, we discovered that Mauna Kea is actually the tallest mountain in the world measured from where it begins in the ocean to its peak.